As the wind blows, ripples form on the smooth water of the ocean. Stable winds create swell that travels to meet merging landscapes at the shoreline. When the swell moves into shallow water, the slope of the wave becomes too great causing it curl and break.
As swells crumble into the beach, surfers paddle onto the wave in the moment between when it forms and breaks. Surfing is the essence of simplicity where no fancy gear is required. It’s just man/woman and board capturing nature-propelled energy for sheer enjoyment.
